Between the warm coastal forests along the coastline and the snow covered heights of the mighty Drakensberg lies the KwaZulu-Natal midlands. Through this undulating landscape of hills and grassy plains the deep river valleys are among the most beautiful scenic features. The rivers of KwaZulu-Natal all have headwaters in the Drakensberg and they lose considerable altitude within short stretches thus creating vibrant waterfalls and rapids which run along the bottom of deep gorges creating a true spectacle of nature. The Mzimkulu and Tugela Rivers are two of the principal rivers that follow this pattern and together with their tributaries, these rivers and their valleys provide spectacular scenery and vast economic potential in the supply of water for industry, agriculture and the generation of power.
In the earlier year’s huge herds of game used to migrate across the grassy plains from the highveld of Gauteng and the Free State to graze on the sweet grass of the midlands. Bushmen hunters migrated with the herds to escape the cold of the highveld to enjoy the warmth of the sheltered valleys in the foothills of the Drakensberg. The tribes then followed in the medieval times and towards the end of the 18th century KwaZulu-Natal was a flourishing wonderland.
Around this time man lived as part of nature in various tribes scattered across the landscape. There were petty feuds over the odd case of livestock theft but the tribes were too insular to make their mark in history. They had little or no knowledge of what lay beyond their territories and did not communicate or trade with any of the other tribes. As far as the tribes were concerned they were all living in their own little paradise.
Then in 1818, disaster struck as Shaka started to build the Zulu nation. This was an upheaval of note and refugee groups fled in all directions as the KwaZulu-Natal tribes were overwhelmed and engulfed by Shaka’s mighty army of warriors.
Around this point the first Europeans reached KwaZulu-Natal and found the whole area uninhabited by any of the original tribes as they had all fled southwards from the Zulus. The British ivory traders settled on the coast and founded Durban and when Piet Retief and the Voortrekkers looked down on the KwaZulu-Natal midlands from the escarpment their hearts jumped at the sight of the lush empty land lying before them.
It was the beauty of this land that caused so much strife and bloodshed. From the Bushmen to the British settlers who, in later years, replaced the Voortrekkers, this land captivated them all at first sight. That is why today the KwaZulu-Natal midlands holds a beauty that is captivated in its ever splendid landscapes and horizons.
Estcourt - In 1847 a fort was built to guard a staging point on the Bushman River where the road from Pietermaritzburg crossed. All sorts were attracted to this area and soon shopkeepers, blacksmiths and innkeepers decided to settle and in 1863 the growing town was named Estcourt after Thomas Estcourt, an English parliamentarian who had promoted immigration to Natal. With ample water from the Wagendrift Dam Estcourt has become a substantial town with a well known sausage and meat packing plant among other industrial activities. Estcourt is on the main railway line from the coast to the north and it is also the main terminus of the delightful narrow gauge railway line to Weenen.
Greytown - The Umvoti district of KwaZulu-Natal produces, among other products, timber and wattle bark. Greytown was established in 1850 as a centre for this area and is situated high up and lies in the mist belt where moisture laden winds from the Indian Ocean condense into blankets of cloud and frequent drizzle. Greytown was established in honour of Earl Grey who was the British colonial secretary. In those days it was a frontier town separated from the independent country of the Zulus by the deep valley of the Tugela River. General Louis Botha was born on a farm a few kilometers south of Greytown. The site of his birthplace, a house, is now a memorial. General Botha commanded the Boer forces during the Anglo-Boer War and became the first prime minister of the Union of South Africa back in 1950.
Hilton - The farm of Upper Hilton lies on the escarpment above the city of Pietermaritzburg. Misty rains keep the area in perpetual greenness and Hilton is one of the loveliest residential districts of KwaZulu-Natal. In 1872 the Reverend W 0 Newnham opened a school in the original farmhouse and this became known as Hilton College which is one of South Africa’s leading private schools today.
Howick - A permanent pathway lies in the ground following a line of least resistance over mountains and valleys. This unplanned route lead to the crossing of the Mgeni River which was swift and deep and the best natural crossing place was immediately above a 95 meter waterfall known to the Africans as kwaNogqaza (‘place of the tall one’). It was a beautiful but treacherous spot and many travellers and wagons were swept over the falls to their demise. Like most popular fording places blacksmiths, traders and innkeepers established businesses to supply and accommodate the travellers and hence Howick was born and was named after the Northumberland home of Earl Grey.
The first inhabitant of Howick was a hotel keeper who also provided a ferry service to cross the river and sadly his young son was swept over the falls during a flood and a pile of stones marks his grave on the banks of the pool at the foot of the waterfall. There is a viewing site at the falls which are now known as the Howick Falls.
Mooi River - The Mooi River (‘beautiful river’) flows through a very fertile valley where willow trees droop along the riverbanks and the hillsides are richly grassed. In 1921 a town was established on the banks of the river and today is a busy agricultural centre. At an altitude of 1389 meters above sea level Mooi River has a crisp climate in contrast to the heat and humidity of the coast 160 kilometres to the south-east.
Pietermaritzburg - The Voortrekkers created the town named Pietermaritzburg after their two leaders, Piet Retief and Gert Maritz. The site was in a fertile hollow at the foot of a tree-covered escarpment where the midlands of Natal rise 400 meters above the surrounding landscape. The soil was rich and there was ample water for irrigation from the river known as the Msunduzi (‘the pusher’), from the surging power of its floods.
The British took over Pietermaritzburg in 1843 and it became the seat of their administration for Natal and in 1846 the first newspaper in Natal, the Natal Witness, was published. The town had shops and inns and in the large central square catered for wagons travelling between the coast and the interior of South Africa. Hunters, explorers and traders passed through the town in vehicles laden with skins, horns and tusks, and often accompanied by tame animals such as zebras and ostriches.
In 1893 Natal was put under a responsible government and a handsome assembly building was built in Pietermaritzburg to house its parliament. In the same year the massive, red brick city hall was completed, adorned with domes, clock tower and stained glass windows. Sadly the building was destroyed by fire in 1895 but was rebuilt in 1901. The original church built by the Voortrekkers when they established Pietermaritzburg stands on the market square on the eastern side of the city hall. The Natal Museum in the centre of the city has an African natural history collection. The gardens of Pietermaritzburg are luxuriant the city has several public parks.
Pietermaritzburg today is the provincial capital of KwaZulu-Natal and the Supreme Court building is built of red brick in the shade characteristic of the natural clay of the district. Pietermaritzburg is the centre for numerous industries. Aluminum is produced here from bauxite mined in KwaZulu-Natal. Timber, wattle bark and dairy goods are also produced in the district.
The annual Comrades’ Marathon, run since 1921, takes place between Durban and Pietermaritzburg and is fast becoming one of the top marathons in the world. The annual Duzi Canoe Marathon also takes place from Pietermaritzburg to Durban down the Msunduzi River. The University of Natal grew from the original Pietermaritzburg College which was founded in 1909 as the Natal University College and was then extended to Durban in 1922.
Richmond - The village was at first named Beaulieu but later the name was changed to Richmond. The town is the railhead of a branch line from Pietermaritzburg. The surrounding countryside is varied and there are several scenic drives. The arrival of the English settlers at Richmond coincided with a slow return of the various tribes which had been driven away by Shaka and his warriors. The Zulus called these refugees amaBhaca (‘people who hide’). These people joined the English settlers and Richmond is today their principal centre. Although composed of elements of different tribal groups, the Bhaca have developed their own identity and their women are some of the most beautifully dressed of the KwaZulu-Natal peoples.
Weenen - In 1838 a town was laid out by the Voortrekkers and was named Weenen (‘weeping’) in memory of the trekkers massacred by the Zulus. The town retains much of the atmosphere of the early days and there is a museum containing Voortrekker relics in a building erected by the Voortrekker leader, Andries Pretorius. A narrow-gauge railway was built in 1907 to connect Weenen to Estcourt and this line is a railway enthusiast’s delight.
