The KwaZulu-Natal coastline from Durban down to Port Edward runs for 160 kilometers and is known as the South Coast. This area is a vast holiday playground with beautiful summer and a green ribbon of sub-tropical forest which runs all the way down the coast. The trees are mainly evergreens and Lala palms grow together with the wild bananas. There are around 4800 plant species in KwaZulu-Natal and they flourish in the rich soil, the high rainfall and the warmth of the coastal belt. Ferns, orchids and multi-coloured lilies are abundant and on the rocky ledges the scarlet flame lily and the Ifafa lily can be found.
Vervet monkeys in countless groups blunder through the trees feeding on wild fruits and leaves and at times being a bit of an annoyance to residents and holiday makers. The secret being – DON”T FEED THE MONKEYS, but unfortunately people do feed them and this causes endless problems.
The coastal forest reaches down to the shoreline where the Indian Ocean with its golden brown beaches and blue water looks ever so inviting. This stretch of coastline is regularly broken by the most amazing lagoons and river mouths and this means and abundance of water sports and adventure. In short this is a coast of absolute beauty and that is why it is one of the most visited stretches of coast in South Africa.
A highway runs, slightly inland, down the coast while the railway line hugs the shoreline and these two link the long necklace of holiday resorts, seaside villages and holiday spots. During the December holidays the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast is a buzz and attracts holiday makers from all over South Africa, mainly the Vaalies (‘Gauteng people’) from Gauteng.
Amanzimtoti - In 1828 the great Zulu chief Shaka led his army down the south coast on a raid against the Pondos. He stopped to rest on the banks of a river and his servant fetched a calabash of water. Shaka tasted it and said, “Kanti amanza mtoti”, (‘So, the water is sweet’) and this river became known as the Amanzimtoti (‘sweet waters’). Amanzimtoti is a residential area and lies on the banks of the Umbogintwini River. It is also a holiday resort with a beach and a beautiful tidal pool.
Ifafa Beach - The Ifafa River has one of the finest lagoons on the south coast of KwaZulu-Natal and is known for its good fishing. Boats cruise up the river beneath the cliffs which are densely covered by trees and bush. The Zulu word iFafa (‘sparkling’) and was used to describe the light glittering on the surface of the river.
Illovo Beach - iLovo is a river named by the Zulus because of the mlovo trees growing on its banks. The river flows into a spacious lagoon with a lovely beach overlooked by a long ridge covered with tall trees and flowering plants. In the shade of the trees and plants lies the village of Illovo.
Karridene - During the First World War a Rand mining magnate named Walter Karri-Davis built a sanatorium among the trees on a long ridge overlooking the Indian Ocean. It was for mine workers suffering from phthisis which is a respiratory ailment caused by inhalation of rock dust. Unfortunately the sanatorium has since burned down and a holiday village has grown up on the spot named Karridene after Karri-Davis.
Kingsburgh - Several small holiday resorts and residential areas combine to form the municipality of Kingsburgh which was named in memory of Dick King who passed this way on his famous 1000 kilometer ride to Grahamstown in 1842.
Margate – This was originally a coastal farm named after the English seaside town of Margate and it has grown into one of the most popular holiday resorts on the lower south coast of KwaZulu-Natal. It has a beautiful wide beach and a lagoon with a very popular fishing spot in the vicinity. The lagoon lies at the Nkhongweni River (‘place of entreaty’) mouth and got its name because the original inhabitants were so mean that travellers had to beg for hospitality. Margate hit the headlines in 1922 when an enormous creature was washed up on the beach. Unfortunately the white furry, ‘Margate monster’, was too decomposed to be identified accurately. This is a cheerful and festive coastal town and is much loved by the younger generation.
Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve – This spectacular gorge of the Mzimkulwana River was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1950. Tall red and orange sandstone cliffs overlook a dense forest of trees and flowering plants. Baboons and dassies thrive on the high cliffs and are preyed upon by the leopards and pythons. Various species of forest antelope live here including duiker, bushbuck and the Oribi which give this beautiful gorge its name. Monkeys and birds live in the tree tops and several species of wild cat can be found.
The road from Port Shepstone winds through hills until it reaches the summit of the Oribi Flats which is a plateau which lies between the gorges of the Mzimkulu and the Mzimkulwana Rivers. There are picnic grounds and a hotel in the reserve and many trees, flowers and shrubs, including the Brunsfelsia commonly known as ‘yesterday, today and tomorrow,’ can be found. A turn off on the Port Shepstone road to the reserve leads to the famous Hanging Rock which is more than 300 million years old and made of Table Mountain Sandstone, a fascinating fact.
Park Rynie - Set in a park amongst the Lala palms lies the village of Park Rynie. It was established in 1857 and named after Mrs. Renetta (Rynie) Hoffman who was the wife of the landowner who developed the area. There was a whaling station here before the First World War and the slipway is still used by fishing boats today.
Pennington - The Nkhomba River flows through one of the loveliest stretches of natural parkland on the south coast of KwaZulu-Natal. The trees shade gentle grassy slopes and streams tumble down the slopes to the river. The area is known as Pennington and was originally a farm owned by the Pennington family who settled in the area from Britain.
Sir Frank Reynolds, the sugar magnate, bought part of the farm and developed a country home which he called Umdoni Park, because of the abundance of Mdoni (water myrtle) trees in the area. On this estate Sir Frank built a seaside residence for the South African prime ministers as a sign of his admiration for General Louis Botha. King George VI of Britain was also offered the use of this lovely, secluded homestead. He had planned a visit but unfortunately he died in 1952.
Port Shepstone – This is the largest town along the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast and lies at the mouth of the Mzimkulu (‘the great home of all rivers’) which is the largest river of the south coast. Port Shepstone was founded in 1880 and was named after Sir Theophilus Shepstone who was an administrator of native affairs in the Natal government.
In 1882 a party of 246 Norwegian immigrants landed at Port Shepstone and these farm people played a large part in the development of the area because of their hard work and farming skills. Being the end of the railway line from Durban Port Shepstone is also the terminus of a narrow-gauge railway line which makes its way inland through to Harding.
Ramsgate - Ramsgate was named by a surveyor who visited a farm at the mouth of the river known as Bilanhlolo (‘the marvelous boiler’) because its pools which bubble vigorously through some action of the current movement. Europeans sometimes called the river ‘Big Billy’ from its African name. At the mouth of the river there is a lagoon set amid beautiful wild banana palms. In 1922 the only person living here was a romantic character named Paul Buck who was a painter and violin maker. He called the place ‘Blue Lagoon’ and built himself a house on the banks of the river and today Ramsgate is a holiday resort with boating on the lagoon, a wide sandy beach and good fishing.
Scottburgh - One of the most popular of the south coast villages is Scottburgh and it was founded in 1860 and named after John Scott who was the governor of Natal. This village has a fine beach at the mouth of the river named by the Zulus as the Mpambanyoni (‘the confuser of birds’) because of the complex twists and turns on its course inland. Many fishing boats chasing big catches on the nearby Aliwal Shoal were also based here. Generally Scottburgh is an attractive town with a protected bathing area called Scott’s Bay.
Umkomaas - Large numbers of whales once used the estuary of the great Mkomazi River to give birth and relax the shallows while taking life easy in the warm water. The Zulus named the river after these whales and uMkhomazi means ‘the place of cow whales’. The town of Umkomaas was originally a harbour for the export of sugar then the coastal railway line was built which made the port redundant and Umkomaas became a popular holiday resort and today Umkomaas is known for its deep sea diving because of its close proximity to Aliwal Shoal, a popular dive site, and the abundant dive schools and shops in the area.
Umtentweni - This beautiful resort called Umtentweni stands at the mouth of the Mtentweni River which is named after a species of grass which grows on its banks. Visitors will find a calm lagoon with good boating facilities and a protected swimming area. There is also a tidal pool and the area is known for its fine fishing.
Umzumbe - A band of Hlongwa cannibals had their stronghold in the valley of the Mzumbe (‘the bad kraal’) River and were almost wiped out in 1828 when they were surprised King Shaka as he led his Zulu army down the south coast. Shaka led his men further south down the ancient path until reached a rise in a saddle of land and they looked down onto the territory of several hostile tribes below. Shaka followed an ancient custom to appease the spirits and ensure good fortune by picking up a pebble with the toes of his left foot and transferring it to his right hand then spitting on it before murmuring a supplication to his ancestors and then placing the pebble at the side of the path. This ritual was followed by every member of his army which resulted in a pile of pebbles on the side of the pathway. These piles of pebbles are called vivanes (heaps of lucky stones) and can be seen in certain areas today. At the mouth of the river is the resort of Umzumbe.
Uvongo - A string of holiday resorts lie along the stretch of coast between the Mzimkulu River and the Mtamvuna River (the start of the Wild Coast). The area is noted for its Lala palms and the fact that the summer humidity is lower here than on the coast north of the Mzimkulu River. South of Port Shepstone the river known as Vungu (from a Zulu word describing the sound of the waterfall or the wind in a gorge near its mouth) and flows into a lagoon in a sheltered bay and among the wild banana trees and lala palms lies the village of Uvongo. With nearby resorts such as St.Michael’s-on-Sea and Manaba Beach there is lots to do and see. The Thure Lilliecrona Park at Uvongo Beach is named after a renowned Natal fisherman who originally owned the area and laid it out as a pretty garden village.
